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เช้าวันที่ 12 กรกฎาคม 2546 หลังจากเสร็จสิ้นภาระกิจที่เชียงใหม่เรียบร้อยแล้ว ม้ากระโดดพร้อมมุ่งหน้าทะยาน อย่างมุ่งมั่น ตรงไปยังอุทยานแห่งชาติสาละวิน ที่ซึ่งเราใฝ่ฝัน อยากจะไปและไม่มีอะไรจะมาฉุดรั้งเราไว้ได้ โดยใช้เส้นทางหลวง หมายเลข 108 ผ่านอำเภอสันป่าตอง อำเภอฮอด แวะกินข้าวกลางวัน ที่ครัวออบหลวง ของอุทยาน แห่งชาติออบหลวง ณ ที่อุทยานฯ แห่งนี้มีกิจกรรม จัดไว้สำหรับ นักท่องเที่ยว อาทิ เช่น ล่องแก่ง เดินป่า เที่ยวน้ำตก แคมป์ปิ้งรถยนต์ เมื่อเลย อช. ออบหลวงก็เข้าสู่อำเภอแม่สะเรียง จ.แม่ฮ่องสอน ช่วงเวลานั้นก็บ่าย 3 โมงเข้า ไปแล้วคิดว่าคืนนี้ ยังไงซะก็ต้องนอนที่แม่สะเรียง เนื่องจากมาคันเดียว การวางแผนการเดินทางต้องรัดกุม และปลอดภัย Guest house มีมากมาย อยู่ริมฝั่งแม่น้ำยวม แต่ดูๆไปแล้วก็งั้นๆ วนไปเวียนมาซักพักคิดว่า น่าจะลองถามชาวบ้านถึงเส้นทางไป อช.สาละวินเผื่อบางที อาจจะมีเวลาพอ และประหยัดเวลาไปได้ 1 คืน พลันสายตาก็ไปหยุดกึกอยู่ที่ LN 106 ซึ่งจอดอยู่ข้างทางในตัวเมือง ดูจากสภาพรถกอรปอ กับข้างรถเขียนไว้ว่า “กรมป่าไม้” ในใจฟันธงไว้เลยว่าต้องรู้จัก อช.สาละวินแน่นอน สวัสดีค่ะ อช.สาละวินไปทางไหนคะ ตามผมมาชิครับ เลี้ยวไปเลี้ยวมาจนมาถึงทางออกมองเห็นป้าย “สาละวิน” อยู่ไกลๆ ถึงแล้วครับทางไป อช.สาละวิน แล้วเจอกันที่หน่วยนะครับ กลับกลายเป็นว่า LN คันนั้นเป็นรถของเจ้าหน้าที่ป่าไม้ อช.สาละวิน จึงทำให้เราไปถึง อช. อย่างไม่ยากลำบากเลย ภาพเบื้องหน้าเราถึงกับตะลึง ไม้ซุงกองวางเรียงราย เป็นร้อยเป็นพันท่อน อยู่ที่หน้าทำ การอุทยานฯ เจ้าหน้าที่ ประจำด่าน ได้เรียกเราให้ไปลงชื่อ แสดงความจำนง ถึงสถานที่จะไป คือ หน่วยสาละวิน บ้านท่าตาฝั่ง และบ้านสามแลบ จากท่าตาฝั่งไปบ้านสามแลบ ทางพังหมดแล้วครับ ต้องรอตัดทางใหม่ งบประมาณก็ยังไม่มา หัวใจพลันสลาย ในใจคิดว่าทริปนี้จะไปรอดไม๊เนี่ย เป็นอันสรุปว่า เราจะค้างคืนที่ อช. 1 คืน เราเลือกที่จะกางเต้นท์ นอนบนลานหญ้ามากกว่า บ้านพักที่สวยงาม ซึ่งตั้งเรียงรายอวดโฉม อยู่ทั้ง 2 ข้างของอาคารที่ทำการฯ หลังจากเสร็จสิ้น จากมื้อค่ำเจ้าหน้าที่ ก็เข้ามาพูดคุยทักทาย จนกระทั่งพลบค่ำ จึงได้แยกย้ายกันไป ก่อนไปเราไม่ลืมที่จะสอบถาม ถึงท่อนซุงจำนวนมาหาศาล จึงได้คำอธิบายว่า เป็นซุงที่ตกค้างอยู่ในป่าสัมปทาน ปัจจุบันสัมปทานได้ถูกยกเลิก ไปแล้ว ทาง อช.จึงได้ชักลากออกมาเพื่อกัน การลักลอบตัดไม้และแอบอ้าง ซุงแต่ละท่อน เส้นผ่าศูนย์กลางไม่ต่ำกว่า 40 ซม. ยาวไม่น้อยกว่า 8-10 ม. นับว่าธรรมชาติได้ถูกทำลายลงไปอย่างมากมาย เราได้แต่คิดว่าดีแล้วที่รัฐบาลยกเลิกสัมปทานไป ไม่งั้นป่าไม้สักและไม้ใหญ่ต่างๆแถบนี้คงไม่เหลือให้ลูกหลานได้ดูได้ชม ฝนตกหนักตั้งแต่มาถึง อช. จนล้มตัวลงนอนก็ยังไม่มีท่าทีว่าจะหยุด

  

   

เช้าวันที่ 13 กรกฎาคม 2546 ถูกปลุกให้ตื่นด้วยเสียงเจื้อยแจ้วของนกนานาพันธ์ อากาศช่างเย็นสบายเหลือเกิน กลิ่นไอฝนยังไม่จางหายไปจากการตกหนักมาทั้งคืน สายน้ำไม่เคยรอท่า วันเวลาไม่เคยคอยใคร วันนี้แหละ เป็นไง เป็นกัน เจ้าหน้าที่มาตามเวลาที่นัดหมายไว้ เข้าพรรษานี้ ทางที่ทำการได้หยุดทำการเป็นเวลา 3 วัน แต่เมื่อมีนักท่องเที่ยว ร้องขอมาทางเจ้าหน้าที่ก็ยินดีจัดให้ครับ เส้นทางที่เลือนลาง บัดนี้ได้แจ่มชัดขึ้นมาทุกขณะ โดยมีป่าไม้ชื่อหมี พร้อมภรรยา เดินทางไปกับเรา ผ่านกองไม้ซุงหน้า อช.เลี้ยวขึ้น ทางออฟโรด ทันที ลัดเลาะไปตามไหล่เขาซึ่งยังไม่ชันและลื่นมากนักจนกระทั่งมาถึงหน่วยบ้านศาลา อันเป็นที่ตั้ง ของหมู่บ้าน ศูนย์อพยพชาวกระเหรี่ยงที่มีเจ้าหน้าที่ UN ดูแลอยู่ พวกเราโบกไม้โบกมือให้เจ้าหน้าที่ UN ที่กำลังขับเคลื่อน LN คันโตเข้าไปในศูนย์ฯ เพื่อเป็นการหยิบยื่นไมตรีต่อกันและกัน ก่อนออกเดินทางต่อเจ้าหน้าที่ศูนย์บอกกับเราว่า เส้นทางที่จะไปต้องขับไปตามลำน้ำในร่องระหว่างเขาไปเรื่อยๆ เนื่องจากทางไหล่เขาได้พังลงหมดแล้ว เอาละซีงานนี้ต้องลุยน้ำ แล้วมาก็มาคันเดียวโดดๆ ถึงเวลาจำเป็นก็ต้องไปลองดูก่อนถ้าไม่ไหวก็ค่อยว่ากันอีกที ใชคดีที่ลำน้ำสายนี้ไม่โหดร้าย เกินไปนัก สำหรับเจ้าม้ากระโดด ที่เตรียมตัวมาเป็นอย่างดี ตรงกันข้าม ลำน้ำใสสายยาวนี้กลับทำให้พวกเรา ทั้งหมดรู้สึกเย็นสดชื่นและ ตื่นเต้นกับความยาว และคดเคี้ยวไม่รู้จบจนมาถึงท่าตาฝั่งโดยไม่รู้ตัว อีกนิดเดียวก็จะถึงหน่วย อุทยานริมแม่น้ำสาละวิน แล้วครับป่าไม ้บอกกับเรา หมดโค้งสุดท้าย ภาพ ตรงหน้าที่ปรากฏ ถึงกับทำให้เราหยุด เจ้าม้ากระโดดลงทันที เบื้องหลัง แนวต้นไม้ใหญ่ เป็นการจัดแนว ระดับ ของบ้านพัก ทำได้อย่างสวยงาม ไม่แพ้รีสอร์ทเลยทีเดียว มองไปทางด้านซ้าย เห็นแม่น้ำสาละวินไหลเชี่ยวกราก ออกไปสุดสายตา มีทิวเขา บังเป็นฉาก ของธรรมชาติได้อย่างลงตัว นี่หรือ แม่น้ำสาละวิน ที่ครั้งหนึ่งเคยถูก เรียกขานว่า แม่น้ำแห่งสายเลือด แล้วฝน ก็ตกลงมา เหมือนอย่างเมื่อวาน แต่คราวนี้ตก ตลอดทั้งคืนจนถึงเช้า คล้ายกับจะบอกกับเราว่า คืนนี้ขอให้หลับฝันดี. ปัญหาอย่างหนึ่งที่เรา ประสบก็คือยุงตัวเล็กๆกัดเท้า แขน ขา คันซะทั่วตัว ในที่สุดก็ขออำลา เข้านอนตั้งแต่หัวค่ำ เหล้ายังไม่หมดขวด ด้วยซ้ำ.

      

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